As a multimedia journalist and documentary filmmaker, I am fortunate enough to combine travel and work in my life. My first trip to Morocco in 2017 was specifically for filming. I stayed in Fez, Tangier, Merzouga, the Sahara Desert, Casablanca, & Marrakech. For any first time or solo travelers planning a visit to Morocco, this will provide the insights I wish someone had told me beforehand.
TRAINS
- The trains run between Tangier, Fes, Marrakech, and Casablanca. There are 3-10 stops made along the way, so if your travel plans include a smaller town, you might be able to use the train to get there. However, the easiest way I have found is to book accomodations in the major cities and travel by car or a company to get to a specific destination.
- It’s best to book your ticket at the train station. Get there early and be ready for possible delyas. The trains are always boarded 15 minutes before departure time, so keep an eye on the departure boards. There is no assigned seating in coach.
- Keep your ticket easily accessible. You will need to show it more than once.
- As a female solo traveler, I found it comfortable enough traveling by train. As always, be aware of your surroundings and use your instinct. I speak Spanish and found that I was given better deals and taken more seriously if I spoke Spanish in taxis, trains, and at the market rather than English.
- There is a night train direct from Marrakech to Tangier that is cheaper and is the only time the train goes direct between the two cities. Otherwise there is a 2 hour way wait in Casablanca. There is a wonderful café outside of the train station in Casablanca that was the perfect rest stop for my train ride. Explore for the little amount of time you can! •
Train Schedule Link: http://www.oncf.ma/Pages/Accueil.aspx
TRAVELING OUTSIDE THE CITIES
Around Morocco Trips is run by a Berber friend of mine named Mbarek. He is incredibly knowledgable and proud of his country and Berber culture. I highly recommend traveling with them to Merzouga into the Sahara Desert. You will stay at a camel house in Merzouga, and a nomadic campsite in the desert for a few nights. Take a look here http://www.berbercampmerzouga.com Be sure to ask for Jimmi the Camel to accompany you on your trip, he gives the best hugs!
It’s customary to tip almost everyone, but don’t feel like you have to give big tips. Most locals tip 5 Moroccan dirham at a café, 15-25 to a taxi, and 2-10 Moroccan dirham to any kid who helps you find your way in the medinas.
There are great rock climbing routes in both Todra Gorge and near the Atlas Mountains. I didn’t get to experience it for myself, but I met some Aussies who raved about it!
CITIES
- Fez: This is the best medina/market in all of Morocco. Definitely worth it to spend a day or two here, and everyone is extremely friendly in this area. It’s still a big city so the Medina isn’t a great place to be alone after dark, but other than that I bought so many crafts and goods here at cheap prices. It’s the city of all leather goods, so be sure to check out a Tannery.
- Tangier (Tanger): Hotel Mamora is the perfect place to stay while in Tanger in terms of price, cleanliness, and location. A taxi from the airport to the hotel should be no more than 150 dirhams ($14), and from the train station 50 dirham ($5). Don’t pay more than that.
- Marrakech: I wasn’t a huge fan of Marrakech. There is a lot of history there and the medina is exciting, but the main square near the medina is awful. Definitely don’t buy anything food/juice/crafts in the square because they are always double the actual price. And stay away from the snake charmers and monkey "trainers" in the square. There is a huge controversy surrounding the ethical treatment of these proclaimed "snake charmers." Outside of the city you will find humane and traditional snake charmers who care deeply for the serpents.
- Merzouga: This is the best town to get to the Sahara. If you book a night in the Berber camp with my friends, then you will stay at the Camel House hostel and the breakfast is amazing.
MEDINAS
- Medinas are a maze. Be very aware of the turns and route that you are walking while out exploring. Do not accept a "guide" if they don't have a guide ID card. It is actually illegal for people to guide foreigners around the medina if they are not qualified. Which means if the person who is showing you around spots an undercover medina patrol police he will leave you to fend for yourself and you could get very lost. That is a worst case scenerio.
- That being said, always carry your accomodations' business card or at least make a note of the address so you can ask for help if you get really lost. (Important to note: If you ask for directions you will be expected to pay a tip for their help in guiding you back to your place.)
- If you are offered the chance to see a tannery, fabric store, leather shop, etc. be ready to buy an item from them. Most of the time you will be shown these interesting family run spots that are away from the main roads so you need to know how to get back. The person (usually a younger boy) who directed you to the shop will wait outside to take you back, but if you don't buy anything from their shop the boy will refuse to take you back. Just be aware of how these situations play out.
FOOD
Having Atay with my friend's family in Merzouga.
- “Atay” is the mint Moroccan tea. It’s cheap, delicious, and Moroccans drink it like its their job. Most likely you will be offered “atay” over a dozen times throughout your trip as a sign of hospitality, so say yes everyt ime . It should be mixed at least 4 times from the tea kettle before being served.
Sugar Cane juice: You can find it for 5 dirham (40 cents) or less in every medina. It is addicting and surprisingly really healthy for your skin and liver.
Tangine: The couscous or kafka tangine is the best.
- Oranges in the south are incredible and crazy cheap.
